The Secret Behind the Closed Door: Casa Saltshaker

One of the most unique - and best - dining experiences I had while in Argentina was an evening at Casa Saltshaker, a "Restaurant a Puertas Cerradas, Salón de Comida y Conversación" (Closed Door Restaurant / Salon for Food and Conversation), of which there are a growing number in BsAs. A fantastic article in The New York Times describes the phenomenon best (read it here), but basically, it's chefs providing exclusive meals to a small number of diners behind closed doors. In the case of Casa Saltshaker, the venue is the ground-floor Recoleta apartment of Dan Perlman, an American chef and sommelier, and his Peruvian companion, Henry Tapia. From the NYT: “There’s something kind of cool about knowing what’s behind the secret door,” Mr. Perlman said, “of being in on something that no one else knows.”

Dan seats no more than 12 people on the nights he holds dinners (indeed, that is all the seats that are even available at two communal tables), and the meals consist of five courses, complete with wine pairings. I took my roommate Patty with me, unsure of what the evening might hold in store, but sure we would be in for something unique. I had been a follower of Dan's blog ever since I knew I was heading for BsAs, and after personally contacting him for some help with restaurant recommendations and getting a nice, prompt and helpful reply, I had a good feeling.

We arrived, received a refreshing welcome drink of pear water, and started meeting our evening's dinner companions. It was a diverse, fun, well-traveled group from all over the world. There were people from Australia, Canada, Thailand, Amsterdam, and throughout the U.S. A doctor, a lawyer, a student, retirees and more... gay, straight, friends, strangers. It was a real melting pot, but everyone spoke English, and no one was shy. (Which got me to thinking - what if the group wasn't talkative, interesting or entertaining? That would be one long five-course death march! Especially because Dan is busy in the kitchen and doesn't appear much, and Henry is basically mute. Maybe I expected they would be more integral to the experience? No matter - our mix of guests that evening was charming.) Dan instructed us to take a seat - preferably not next to anyone we knew - and the meal began.

I'll just let the menu speak for itself. Dan's theme for the night was "Nanakusa-no-sekku," or the Japanese Festival of Seven Herbs which was taking place at the same time. I did snap these mediocre photos, but it wasn't a great environment - or very socially appropriate - to really photograph the meal in order to do it justice. Besides, I was having too much fun talking to my dinner companions. But you'll get the idea.

Ensalada de Shiitakes y Shishitos a la Plancha

(Shiitake Salad and Grilled Shishito)
Wine: Nieto Senetiner Brut Nature

Sopa de Choclo y Miso

(Corn and Miso Soup)
Wine: Etchart Torrontes

My favorite course. The soup was exceptional. The most exotic flavors I'd had since arriving in Argentina.

"Risotto" de Mijo con Higado de Pato

(Millet "Risotto" with Duck Liver)
Wine: Monteviejo "Festivo" Rosado

So clever - the millet slow cooked in the style of a risotto, with tiny diced bits of vegetables giving it color and flavor. The result was creamy and rich... the duck liver put it right over the top. And do you see those? Fresh herbs!

Palometa en Manteca, Sambayon de Soya y Mirin

(Palometa, a white fish, in butter with a Soy and Mirin Sabayon)
Wine: Padrillos Pinot Noir

OMG - the sabayon was so different and unique, light and amazing. And this would be the only fish (aside from my ill-ordered filet at a parilla) that I would have on the trip. Such a welcome change from all the meat and cheese. I could feel my arteries thanking me.

Pastel de Batata
(Sweet Potato Cake)
Wine: Callia "Amable" Dulce Natural

I can usually pass on dessert, but this particular cake could change my mind. Rich, but not too sweet. I loved it.

The wines I remember as all being amazing as well, but honestly, I was hyper-focused on the food and didn't so much as make a note. Oopsie.

The entire evening was such a great experience. I recall wondering how in the world Dan could churn out the quality and quantity of food from his small apartment kitchen, but quickly realized that I'd done the same thing in my own tiny apartments over the years without hesitation. Maybe my food wasn't of his quality or originality, but I wouldn't - don't - hesitate to feed a dozen people a multi-course meal with only a four-burner stove and an oven. But the memories from that lovely Recoleta apartment - of the food, of the people, of the conversations - they will be among my most vivid from this whole Argentina excursion. Thanks Dan - and if you ever find yourself in the Napa Valley, your place at my table is already set.