As I mentioned, Buenos Aires is a huge city. Huge. There are 48 different official barrios, and I made it to about nine. My home base was located in San Telmo, perhaps the most interesting, lively and vibrant of all the barrios I visited. It was a fantastic neighborhood, with some of the city's most impressive graffiti lining the narrow cobblestone streets, art galleries and cafés at every turn, and a palpable energy in the air. It was just fun.
Sights popular with both locals and tourists alike were steps from my doorstep. San Telmo is home to Plaza Dorrego, the second oldest plaza in BsAs, and its famed Sunday Feria de Antigüedades (antiques market). Calle Defensa, a street chock full of restaurants, shops and galleries, turns into a pedestrian-only crafts market on Sunday as well. And while the neighborhood really does come alive on Sunday, it's a bustling area any other day of the week too. Tango music and dance can be enjoyed every night in the plaza, and the cafes and restaurants spill patrons onto the sidewalks literally all night long. San Telmo meters out the bohemian heartbeat of the city.and crafts market...
Scenes from the antique market...
During my stay, a film crew descended on Plaza Dorrego and shot some scenes for a movie over the course of an afternoon. They spiffed up one of the side streets and transformed it into something quite different - added a fountain, a flower stand, potted plants, window boxes, etc. So even though their end result was not exactly representative of the true locale, the location scouts obviously agree with me: San Telmo is just where you want to be to discover the European flavor and latin spirit of Buenos Aires.
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